Finally! After what seemed like forever I was able to return to Japan for the first time since the boarders closed in March of 2020 for my annual winter wildlife photography adventure. Outside Las Vegas, NV, eastern Hokkaido is where I feel the most at home. Returning after three years of absence only solidified that as everything came back to me like it was yesterday in knowing where to go and the rhythms of daily life in that region as I continue to experience them.
While this was not my longest visit, I was still able to reacquaint myself with all the important aspects along the routes I travel when in these parts. Both surprisingly and thankfully not much has changed since the winter of 2020. I had been worried that Covid would have impacted the small shops and restaurants to the point of having to close but that did not seem to be the case.
One factor that did trouble me was that this winter (December through February) is now going down as the second warmest winter on record for Japan according to the Japan Meteorological Agency (JMA). The warmest on record: 2020. That said, certain areas such as the Tohoku region and areas in Hokkaido broke even those historical record temperatures. Having visited in 2020, I can honestly say this winter in Hokkaido had a LOT less snow. Areas that even in 2020 were completely iced over to the point of allowing ice fishing and snowmobile travel had open water this season. I freely admit it was just plain scary to see how much climate change is impacting areas like this at such an accelerated rate. Never mind how challenging it makes creating "winter" wildlife images if there isn't any snow.
Even with the challenge of changing weather, Japan continues to give amazing experiences each season. Below are some of the newest images I was able to create while there this season. From the endangered red-crowned cranes to the vulnerable Steller sea eagles, the Ezo red fox and the Yezo sika deer, they seemed appreciative enough of the mild winter as it does make it easier for them to survive if they aren't having to deal with extreme cold and deep snow. I felt that only the whooper swans, ensconced high in the mountains on the volcanic Kussharoko, had a seemingly "normal" winter environment.
It was a bit surreal to have some of the densest drift ice that I've seen directly off the coast while the snow drifts were non-existent in places. Having the drift ice for the sea eagles was amazing though. I always hope for it but, as fast as it can move, it is never guaranteed, even day to day in some cases.
The drift ice being so close into the coastline brough new opportunities that I have not had on previous visits; namely it provided calm coves for wintering sea ducks, such as the long-tailed ducks, close to shore, making them much easier to photograph. It also allowed me to photograph foxes hunting on the icebergs that had become beached. They understood that these temporary platforms might provide the chance at ducks, too.
Planning for next year's visit, I decided to focus a bit more on some of the smaller species that Hokkaido offers as well. Especially in the mornings when small birds are most active, I was able to capture a few images of various passerines we encounter throughout the tour.
After only a week in Hokkaido, I jetted down to Nagano prefecture for a quick visit to Joshinetsu Kogen National Park - home of the famous Japanese macaques aka snow monkeys. Mother Nature must have heard my birthday wish and she provided a light but beautiful dusting of snow over the park the morning I visited. It was the first time in over a week they had snowfall. Still, the temperatures quickly rose above freezing meaning the snow fell but didn't stick for long and that the monkeys were less active in the baths as they didn't need the warmth.
By late morning the snow had stopped and the number of people in the park was growing which was my signal to head out. A relaxing afternoon with my friend and her other AirBnB guests was a nice way to start winding down my trip.
The last stop I like to make before heading back to the states at this time of year is to a residential area on the outskirts of Tokyo. While the ice flows and winter resident wildlife continue to flourish in Hokkaido, in Tokyo and the southern areas of the country the annual ume (plum) blossoms start peaking. In 2020, I found a wonderful park where they have upwards of 30 different varieties of ume trees. Where the blooms are, there is also birdlife. My favorite subjects are the warbling white-eyes.
Spending an afternoon among the flowers and partaking in the local ume matsuri (festival), I watched the sun set, illuminating a hazy Fuji-san between high rise apartments before retuning to my hotel for my last night in Japan.
A fitting end to what felt like a whirlwind visit. With two sold out tours in 2025, I really can't wait for next February to roll around!
Want to join me in Japan in 2026? Make sure to subscribe to my newsletter to be the first to know when those dates are released!
